Nicaraguan cities

Days 71 to 74 and 77 to 80

Sat 5 Mar 2011 - Mon 14 Mar 2011 28 °C

Keen to spend as little time as possible in Managua, Nicaragua's capital, I head for Leon and Granada which quickly become my favourite cities in Central America. Most of the major cities here are dirty, unfriendly and chaotic, and you can sense the danger the guide books warn you of. Leon and Granada are a welcome surprise: inviting, colourful and energetic.

Leon's history is quite literally plastered all over its streets: murals all over the city depict its traumatic past, a star-shaped monument remembers those who died fighting for freedom during the civil war and plaques commemorate the young poet Rigoberto Lopez Perez, who assassinated dictator General Samoza before he himself was shot some fifty times by the National Guard, and the four Leonites who were shot during anti-Somoza protests just three years later.

Both Leon and Granada live and breathe politics. Even for someone as apolitical as me, it is impossible to spend any time in Nicaragua without getting caught up in the unfolding history of the country's politics. Leftist Sandinista graffiti is painted every few metres; the roads, pavements and lampposts sprayed in bold red and black FSLN colours. Elections will be held in November, but I have yet to meet anybody who does not believe that Ortega has already won the vote. This is despite the growing accusations of abuse of power and corruption, and the fact that according to the constitution, he is not allowed to run for president having exceeded the maximum of 2 terms, and consecutive terms are not permitted.

For the most part, Granada is somewhat more manicured than the crumbling architecture of Leon, but has its own intriguing atmosphere. You can feel the onset of tourism arriving on a much larger scale than previously in Nicaragua. I can only hope it doesn't spoil its charm: this is my favourite country in Central America so far because of its fiercely proud, warm and open people, its past and present worn on its sleeve, its arresting architecture and cracked pavements, and the magical Isla de Ometepe (Ometepe adventures warrant two entries of their own....)